Three incredible London restaurants that just earned their first Michelin star
February might be dark, damp, and a bit miserable, but there’s one thing that always brightens up the month – the annual Michelin Guide awards. Last week, the culinary world gathered in Glasgow to see who made the cut for 2025. And lucky for me, I recently ate at three of the restaurants that just snagged their very first Michelin star. So, let’s talk about them – what they serve, what’s worth ordering (in my opinion) and whether they deserve that coveted star.
Lita: live-fire magic in Marylebone
Lita opened in late 2024 and is a recent addition to the Marylebone restaurant scene. They took over a friend of mines old site which previously belonged to Crazy Pizza. Lita is a modern mediterranean bistro with a focus on seasonal produce and open-fire cooking. Head Chef Luke Ahearne heads up the show here having previously worked at The Clove Club, Corrigans and Luca. I first dined here back in 2024 and then again around 10 days ago, just before they got the star. Things have definitely improved since my first visit.
The vibe? Warm, intimate, and effortlessly cool. Neutral woods, dim but effective lighting and the most amazing staff who are super friendly and knowledgeable. It’s refined but relaxed and not at all stuffy. The kind of place you can really settle in and get comfortable for a couple hours. They also have a two-seater chefs table right on the open kitchen which is perfect for date night – it’s not secluded and you’re still very much in the main restaurant which is cool.
Standouts from my meal:
Fuentes bluefin tuna carpaccio – this plate was so good. A must order. A combination of ultra-fresh Feuntes bluefin tuna, corno peppers, coriander, and capers was just insane. A perfect balance of acidity and umami. It’s light, fresh and will really wake up your palette for what’s to come. Atun Fuentes is the world leader in wild-caught tuna production – exceptional quality that is difficult to beat. No shame in ordering two of these, I usually do.
Scottish langoustine Al Ajillio – what a plate. As soon as I saw Luke preparing these on the pass I knew I had to order them. Huge langoustines cooked over the woodfire before being dressed in the most amazing al ajillo dressing – made with olive oil, slow cooked sliced garlic, parika, red chilli and parsley. So fragrant and so rich. Really flavoursome and beautifully balanced with the ultra sweet langoustine.
Duck ragout – it’s actually this dish that first inspired my own duck ragout recipe. I have yet to post the long form for that, so stay tuned, but the inspiration started right here with this dish. Ultra slow-cooked duck legs are the centre of this sauce which is tossed together with, chewy, al dente strozzapreti, buried under a mound of parmesan. My friend said this was the best pasta he had ever tried. Long story short, order this.
Bone-in ribeye – beautifully prepared. Cooked just right, with a lovely smokey crust and blushing centre. I find that a lot of these ex-dairy cows can be quite tough but at Lita, it was super tender. Served with a rich beef jus (love).
Lita is a solid addition to London’s fine-dining scene, but it’s also the kind of place that doesn’t feel stuffy or overly formal – good vibes and very good food. I highly recommend for dinner. Busy and fun with lots of variety on the menu.
AngloThai: British ingredients, Thai soul
Next up is another Marylebone newcomer: AngloThai. This place is something special. It takes modern Thai flavours and infuses them with hyper-local British ingredients – think spicy, sweet, sour, and umami all working in perfect harmony. This is the debut London restaurant from husband and wife team, John and Desiree Chantarasak. They have an excellent wine list here too, focusing on mainly British and European producers. Definitely a place to get experimental.
The set menu keeps things exciting, and the cozy, welcoming atmosphere makes it the perfect spot for a winter meal. It’s a great date night spot too, but one that’s much more intimate than Lita.
Highlights from the night:
Carlingford oyster with sea buckthorn and fermented chilli dressing – I’m not even a big oyster guy, but this was phenomenal. Sharp acidity, deep umami, and a fiery kick that woke up my taste buds in the best way. If you love spice, this is a must.
Brixham crab with Exmoor caviar and coconut ash cracker – cold, fresh, and sweet, a perfect follow-up to the oyster – such an interesting dish with lots of hidden flavour pockets. Delicious and creative.
Chalk stream trout with green chilli and watermelon radish – the dressing on this was so good, I was scooping up every last drop. Again, ample chilli-heat which I always crave with this kind of food.
Venison from the Windsor Estate – grilled to perfection and served with a peppercorn curry sauce that was rich, tangy, and had just the right level of spice. On the side? A chewy, crispy rice dish that was almost as good as the venison itself, perfect to scoop up that sauce with.
Rhubarb, white cardamom, and coconut palette cleanser – this little dish blew me away. Creamy, fragrant, and just sweet enough – had to go to the kitchen and chat to the chefs after trying this one. It was just a really ingenious combination of flavours.
The only miss? The pollock – a bit too subtle in flavour compared to everything else. I found this one a little bland and underwhelming, especially given the level of complexity of all the other dishes. To be honest, I would love an a la carte option here.
Oma: Greek-inspired fire and flavour in Borough Market
If you’re opening a restaurant in London’s Borough Market – a place already packed with some of the best food in the city – you’ve got to be good. Enter Oma, the latest venture from the same team behind Manteca, nestled upstairs from its sister restaurant, Agora, bringing a fresh, Greek island-inspired menu with fresh ingredients, bold flavours and lots of spice. There’s a huge open-fire grill which adds to a great vibe, plus an icy display of flavourful crudo.
What to order:
The dips – don’t even think about skipping these. Their hummus, baba ghanoush, and ajvar (a smoky red pepper and eggplant spread) are insanely good. They come with freshly baked laffa bread that’s warm, pillowy, and the perfect vehicle for all that goodness.
Yellowfin tuna tartare – light, fresh, and beautifully seasoned.
Sea bass crudo – delicate but with a punch from jalapeño and ginger – this was my favourite from the crudo’s.
Txuleta – the beef that stole the show. A perfectly seared, buttery-soft cut of beef, served with nothing but a rich, glossy beef jus that had been reduced to an almost glaze-like consistency. Simple, but unbelievably good and so tender.
Oxtail giouvetsi with bone marrow – the most deeply flavoured, ultra-beefy orzo with a marrow bone rested on top. This one was mixed at the table so that all the ingredients were perfectly dispersed throughout the pasta. Delicious.
A solid spot for lunch or dinner. Again, super casual and booking in advance is required. Downstairs at Agora though, it’s walk-ins only and so that’s where I would recommend if you want to wing it on the day. Equally good food from the same team but in a slightly different environment.
So, did Michelin get it right?
I’ll be honest, I feel like stars are getting thrown around a little these days. Lots of places with so many layers of intricate thought and process don’t seem to get the recognition, whilst others do. It’s definitely a bit of food mafia out there but hey.. just my thoughts. As for the above three spots, they all offer something different. Whilst I loved Oma, I didn’t think it was star worthy. Would I go back? Absolutely, the food was great, but I just wouldn’t go as far as the star. Curious if anyone on here has been? Let’s talk in the comments and chat. What’s next on your must-visit list?
Another well-articulated, detailed review of quality restaurants to visit in London. Oh, to taste the Rhubarb, White Cardamom and Coconut palette cleanser. And back to exploring my Greek roots, the Oxtail Giovetsi with Bone Marrow. Who doesn’t adore Oxtail, taking Greek beef stew to a whole different stratosphere.
Frankly I thought your Duck Ragu excelled, at least visually, and although the video is almost totally self-explanatory, I’ve a few questions, so eagerly awaiting the long form.
Yes, I live in a town where they throw out a Michelin star or two or three, like confetti at a minor celebration. Appreciate your reference to the Food Mafia, because clearly it exists, as it does in all forms of Art and Science, much less both combined. Throw in the human element and the variables of fresh food, plus customers and trying to maintain a viable, profitable enterprise, well you get the idea.
Like the movie, “Any Given Sunday”, yes, anything can happen on any day in the food and service industry. Michelin stars, at least in my humble opinion, should be served with a very large grain of salt.
I worked with a wonderful Chef for years, and asked him, what is it like to be a Chef every day? He said, “It’s the constant correction of mistakes. And you still make it happen.” That’s not for the meek or weak, clearly.
Thank you again for your honest appraisal, transparency and wonderful insight into many places that take us outside our current environment and may not get a chance to visit. At least in the near future. Another much appreciated Review. You’re much appreciated.
Been to Lita back in May for my birthday and instantly made it to my top 5 in London. That duck ragout…👨🏼🍳💋