Tokyo guide: Part 1 SUSHI
Some of my favourite spots
I've been looking forward to sharing my travel guides with you for quite some time and it’s been such a long process figuring it all out, but here it is: Volume 1 – a little playbook with some of my favourite spots in Tokyo. There's a real mix of places in here, from sensational hole-in-the-wall joints to ultra luxe omakase, but I think it's a great representation of the sheer breadth of spots on offer in Tokyo. The gastronomy is so unbelievably diverse in Japan and I hope this guide serves to help you navigate the maze that is Tokyo’s food scene, even if just a little.
Each week, I'll spotlight my top picks in a specific category —think wagyu yakiniku, tempura, ramen, omakase and more—all discovered during my adventures in this gastronomic paradise.
Before I dive into all the incredible spots I ate at, let me clarify that all of this is of course, just my opinion. Taste is subjective and everyone has a different palette. That being said, I did a ton of research before heading to Japan and these are some of the places that really stood out to me. From speaking to various friends, chefs and foodies who have been / lived out there, to reading blogs, watching YouTube and just trawling through thousands of Instagram posts - I did a deep-dive into hundreds of restaurants before creating my shortlist. Last thing I want to mention here is that I only had around a week or so in Tokyo, so I couldn't (even nearly) fit in everything that I wanted. There are thousands of incredible places to dine in Tokyo and these are simply my favourites from my most recent trip. There are so many legendary spots I haven’t yet visited, but hoping to be back there soon.
Make sure to double check each restaurant's address and opening times before making any plans because info can change. And trust me, book early—some of the popular spots fill up fast, usually two months in advance, if not more. I haven’t included a few of the top places in here purposely, as some of these are virtually impossible to get into unless you are a regular, so pointless to mention. If you want the names anyway, DM me, I'll send you the deets.
To kick things off, let's dive into the world of sushi.
PART 1: SUSHI
Takamitsu
One of my favourite omakase spots in Tokyo on this last trip. Chef Takamitsu Yasuda is known for his incredible selection of uni and tuna and is one of the largest buyers of uni in Tokyo. He has a big reputation. If there are ingredients he likes at the auctions, he will outbid anyone so he can serve them to guests. A true showman and one who goes out of his way to bring you the best of the best. The atmosphere in here is refined and intimate. Very Japanese and I was the only foreigner. Pretty sure they were wondering what I was doing in there but man this place was incredible. An impressive selection of seafood, prepped a-la-minute. The rice was beautifully seasoned and well balanced. Firm grains that melted on the tongue. No English spoken here, so you will need Google translate. 11 seats only. My favourite bites were his seared black throat sea perch nigiri and the uni rice with white truffle. Just amazing.
Address: 1-28-2 Aobadai, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 153-0042, Japan
Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday, 6:00 PM - 12:00 AM; Closed on Sunday
Sushi Hoseki
This one may come as a surprise because Hoseki has a few locations worldwide. However Hoseki at the Bulgari Hotel in Tokyo really is fantastic. It's uniqueness comes from 3-michelin starred head chef Kenji Gyoten from Sushi Gyoten in Fukoka. He has a fresh and interesting approach to sushi making and the selection of seafood I was able to try was incredible. The sushi and intricacy of the small plates were almost too pretty to eat. Ultra lux from start to finish with a phenomenal sake list. I was able to try a bottle of the 2015 Brain Damage Incorporated – if you see it, order it. Insane to see this on a menu. Mind blowing stuff. The hotel is also my favourite in Tokyo. Have stayed here twice and it’s by far the best.
Address: Bvlgari Hotel Tokyo 40F, 2-2-1 Yaesu, Chuo-ku, Tokyo 104-0028, Japan
Opening Hours: Monday, Friday to Sunday: 12:00 PM - 2:00 PM, 6:00 PM - 8:00 PM, 8:30 PM - 10:30 PM; Thursday: 6:00 PM - 8:00 PM, 8:30 PM - 10:30 PM; Closed on Tuesday and Wednesday
Umi
A great lunch-time omakase spot. This place previously held 2-Michelin stars. Not sure what happened to them, but I can attest that the sushi is excellent. It’s a very casual and relaxed vibe with high quality ingredients. English friendly and welcoming to foreigners. The tuna here (particularly the Chu-toro) was unbelievably good, as was the sweet prawn nigiri. One of their signature dishes to start is just a plain bowl of chefs sushi rice, topped with a generous tablespoon of oscietra caviar. Absolutely delicious and a solid way to kick things off. They finish with a select of seasonal fresh fruit and if you know anything about Japanese fruit.. you’ll know why this is something to look forward to. I believe around 8 seats. Also, this place is round the corner from Wagyu Mafia’s sando shop, so if you’re still hungry, you can head there for a quick wagyu sando.
Address: 1F, 3－2－8 Minami Aoyama Minato-ku Tokyo
Opening Hours: Lunch: 12PM, Dinner: 5pm and 8pm. Closed Wednesday
Sushi Sugita
One of the most sought after bookings in Tokyo, this is an edomae style omakase. I didn't manage to go here on my trip, but I have a number of very reliable sources that have been and rated it highly. Infact some of them said it is the best omakase in all of Tokyo. This is where I’ll be going on my next visit to Tokyo. Bookings are beyond difficult and you would need to ask a plugged local well in advance (if you are fortunate enough to have one).
Address: VORT Shinbashi NEX1F, 5-13-10 Shinbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-0004, Japan
Opening Hours: 5:00 PM - 10:30 PM; Takeout available from 5:30 PM - 8:00 PM; Closed on irregular holidays
Sushi Taira
Koichi Taira's new restaurant after leaving Umi – I really loved his style of sushi. He always has three types of shari (rice) on hand and uses the different varieties depending on the fish. Effortless sushi making and impressive, innovative small plates in and amongst the nigiris. His uni gunkan was unreal. Approachable, tasty and tourist friendly. A good spot for any occasion.
Address: 1F, 3 chome 2-13 Motoazabu Minatoku Tokyo Japan
Opening Hours: Lunch:12 PM (Wed only), Dinner: 5PM and 8PM. Closed Sunday & Monday
Sushi Ya
For a lunchtime omakase, Sushi-Ya offers great value and quality with a 12-14 course selection of nigiris and small plates. It's an outpost from Kanesaka, with head chef Mamoru-san leading the service. A light-hearted atmosphere with very friendly service. Their tamago is insane. Go here for dinner for the full experience.
Address: 104-0061 Tokyo, Chuo City, Ginza, 6 Chome−4−16 Hanatsubaki Bldg, 2
Opening Hours: Tuesday – Saturday 12 – 2pm and 5.30pm – 10pm closed Sunday & Monday
Sushi Saito
Another very popular and very worth it omakase spot. A very careful and precise interplay of textures and flavours. Beautiful dishes, some of the best in terms of presentation. Best bet here is to use the TableAll website which is great for hard-to-book reservations. They charge a booking fee of about 8000 JPY per person and usually it comes through. I booked on here and chased on email several times till it came through. Saito is one of the most famous sushi masters in Japan.
Address: 2F Ogetsudo, 4-2-2 Akasaka Minato-ku, Tokyo
Opening Hours: Two sittings 6pm and 8.30pm Closed on Monday
Hakkoku
I wouldn’t rank this spot as my favourite but that may have been because whilst I was having dinner at Hoseki, my hotel texted me about a last-min cancellation at Hakkoku. There was a rare open seat up for grabs. I’d just finished 25 courses at Hoseki and was pretty full to say the least, but figured I may as well go and hit it anyway. The head chef, Hiroyuki Sato, also wasn’t in that evening, which can often make a difference too.
Either way, Hakkoku’s approach to sushi is still impressive, with a strong focus on classic Edomae-style nigiri and an emphasis on rice, which has a firmer texture and a more pronounced vinegary bite compared to other omakase spots. The menu is simple and purist, letting the fish shine without too many frills.
Address: 3F, 6-7-6 Ginza Chuoku Tokyo
Opening Hours: 17:00-21:00; Closed on Sunday
Stay tuned for next week's edition, where I'll delve into all things wagyu and yakiniku from my Tokyo travels.
My man, great read. I've been following and making your dishes for a while now - always 10/10. I'm traveling to Tokyo next week but on a tighter budget than the restaurants described above. I'd like to take my girlfriend to one mind-blowing sushi place, plus some other less expensive but still amazing spots. Which one would you recommend for that one special sushi experience?RetryClaude can make mistakes. Please double-check responses.
Oh sushi, I want you inside me now….