Tokyo Guide Part 7: The Best Tempura in Tokyo
Golden, delicate, and crispy….
In today’s article I want to give you a little insight into the wonderful world of tempura.
During my last visit to Tokyo, I was only able to squeeze in a handful of tempura shops to the itinerary, but tempura – Japan’s centuries-old frying technique – is one of the country’s most revered and precise culinary arts, and Tokyo is home to some of the most skilled tempura chefs on earth.
Done properly, tempura is so much more than just deep-fried meat and vegetables. It should be light as air. Crisp, but never greasy. A perfectly juggled balance between the bubbly batter and encased ingredient. It’s usually served omakase-style, piece by piece, straight from fryer to plate, along with a selection of different seasonings and dipping sauces, with seafood and vegetables taking centre stage.
Below are three standout spots that are on the higher end of the spectrum, but ones that offer very different tempura experiences. Hopefully one of these spots makes the cut for your next trip to Japan! The first two are easier to book than the last.
As always, be sure to check current opening hours and reservation details before heading out.
Tempura Kondo
If you only visit one tempura restaurant in Tokyo, I would urge you to make it Kondo. Holding two Michelin stars, this isn’t just one of the city’s best tempura spots, it’s regarded as one of the best restaurants in the city full stop. Tempura Kondo has retained their 2 Michelin for over 16 years, having been awarded them back in 2009. Proper stuff.
The casual but refined tempura house is run by Chef Fumio Kondo. He is something of a legend when it comes to tempura and has been at this location for over 30 years. With decades of experience behind him, he’s mastered the art of tempura to an almost spiritual level. You will see him free pouring the tempura batter with no measurements – it’s almost like he’s in a flow state, working with precision and a very calm demeanour. His technique here is to create a batter that protects the ingredients so that they almost steam inside, rather than being drowned in the heavy oil – this gives his food a really crisp texture that isn’t at all greasy.
The atmosphere in here is calm and confident, no flashy interiors, just a pristine wooden counter, a couple of calm sous chefs, and Kondo-san himself, rhythmically dipping and frying each piece before laying it gently in front of you. I found the crowd to be very local too which is cool, lots of businessmen and older Japanese couples who seemed like regulars.
Whilst everything was exceptional, there are a few dishes that stood out to me. The tempura carrot dish was fun to watch and even more fun to eat. He prepares this by peeling a carrot into one ultra-thin and long sheet before cutting it into the finest julienned strands. These are then tossed in the batter before being fried into an airy, lace-like crisp - light, sweet, and visually stunning watching them dance in the hot oil. The second standout is his famous tempura sweetcorn, made with baby sweetcorn from Hokkaido, and loosely bound together in an almost coral-like formation. Each bite is juicy, crisp, and almost creamy inside. There's lots of seasonal tempura seafood here too, shrimp, anago (sea eel), scallop etc, all fried with unbelievable lightness. His tempura uni is pretty special too, first time trying it in this style for me - wrapped in shiso and ultra creamy after the quick fry.
This is high-end tempura, but prices are reasonable compared to Tokyo’s fine dining scene, making it a rare combination of mastery and accessibility. Booking wasn’t difficult, my hotel sorted this for me no problem.
📍 Location: Sakaguchi Building 9F, 5-5-13 Ginza, Chuo City, Tokyo
🕒 Opening Hours: Mon–Sat, 12:00pm–3:00pm / 5:00pm–8:00pm (Closed Sundays)
📞 Reservations essential
Tempura Fukamachi
Tucked away in a quiet corner near Kyobashi, Tempura Fukamachi is a small, refined counter-only restaurant with one Michelin star and just 12 seats. It’s remarkably easy to book for its calibre and once you’re seated, you’ll see why this spot is such a favourite among locals in the know. Chef Masao Fukamachi and his two sons run this restaurant today.
What makes Fukamachi special is the subtlety of its technique. The chef adjusts the batter ratio throughout the course depending on the ingredient – a level of precision that’s rarely seen. Seafood is feather-light and cooked to absolute perfection: prawn heads that shatter on bite, kisu (Japanese whiting), and uni tempura that melts in your mouth. I think Kondo made the tempura uni famous many years ago, but lots of shops do this now. For the frying itself, Fukamachi uses sesame oil at two different temperatures in order to yield the best result depending on the ingredient. Sometimes a double fry!
Vegetables are equally well handled here: sweet potato, asparagus, maitake mushrooms, all cut thick and fried in a way that keeps the inside soft and full of flavour while the outside stays crisp.
The atmosphere is traditional but relaxed, and the chef will usually engage with guests a little, especially if you sit at the counter.
Fun fact, Kondo and chef Masao Fukamachi both trained at the same hotel back in the day!
📍 Location: 2 Chome-5-2 Kyobashi, Chuo City, Tokyo
🕒 Opening Hours: Mon–Sat, 11:30am–2:00pm / 5:00pm–9:00pm (Closed Sundays)
📞 Reservations recommended — usually not difficult
Tempura Niitome
This is ultra-refined tempura. You probably won’t find a more precise approach to the one adopted at Niitome. Tempura Niitome takes the craft and pushes it in bold, modern directions, whilst still respecting the traditions at its core. It’s one of the hardest reservations in Tokyo with only 8 seats (or technically, in Nagoya, but they’ve been doing pop-ups and collabs in Tokyo). Either way, it’s worth the wait and effort. You can try asking your hotel concierge ahead of time.
Chef Niitome is known for combining super-premium ingredients with incredible technique and creativity. He creates a custom batter here, ice chilling the flour to super low temperature, then whipping it into ice water and eggs before frying. The result is unlike any other texture you’ll find. The technique at this spot is second to none, with constant oil changes and an unroasted sesame blend used for the base oil.
Expect a quiet, calm environment, and a menu that rewards the adventurous. No photos allowed here so proceed with caution.
Bookings are exclusively through TableAll, and you’ll need to secure your spot at least 3 months in advance.
📍 Location: Nagoya (and seasonal Tokyo pop-ups; check TableAll for details)
🕒 Opening Hours: Typically Tues–Sat, dinner only – varies by seating
📞 Reservations via TableAll only – extremely limited
Whether you’re new to tempura or already obsessed, Tokyo has something to offer at every level of the craft. The ones above are obviously at the higher end of the spectrum, but given I only had a short time in Tokyo, I wanted to choose the best. From the elegance of Kondo to the experimental firepower of Niitome, each place on this list represents a different corner of the same golden, crisp tradition.
Thank you for this! You’ve made my mouth water!
I’m now craving for tempura after reading this! Thank you for sharing an amazing newsletter!