Chicken & mushroom vol-au-vents: a recipe

Some dishes just have an effortless kind of elegance, the ones that feel fancy but, when done right, are actually pretty straightforward to pull off. A Vol-au-Vent is exactly that. The name alone sounds like something you’d only eat at a restaurant with white tablecloths, but at their core, they’re just crisp, flaky pastry filled with something rich and indulgent. I had an unforgettable version at Hélène Darroze at The Connaught – hers was a masterclass in luxury, packed with lobster and swimming in the silkiest sauce. But I wanted to make something just as special at home, with ingredients that are a little easier to get your hands on.

This version keeps all the best parts: golden, buttery pastry and a velvety, deeply savoury filling, but swaps the seafood for a mix of tender chicken and wild mushrooms. Morels, girolles, and whatever other wild mushrooms I could get my hands on all went in, bringing that earthy, umami depth that makes the sauce sing. And while you could make your own puff pastry, I don’t see the point. Store-bought does the job perfectly, and we’re here for the filling, not an all-day pastry project.

What you need to know before you start

• Use good-quality puff pastry. Go for an all-butter one if you can. It makes a difference.

• Bake the shells properly. Puff pastry needs time to get crisp and golden, don’t rush it, or you’ll end up with soggy layers.

• Layer the flavours in your sauce. Start with a good base: shallots, garlic, and thyme, then let everything simmer and develop properly.

• Use a mix of mushrooms. Morels and girolles add depth, but feel free to mix in whatever you can find. Even chestnut mushrooms work if that’s what’s available.

  

• Don’t skimp on the butter and cream. This is not the time for restraint. The sauce should be rich, glossy, and clinging to every bite.

• Cook the mushrooms sufficiently. Cook them enough so all the water disappears and they can crisp up properly.

With all that in mind, let’s get into it.