Tokyo guide: Part 4 Kakigori
The holy grail of Japanese desserts..
If you’ve been following my Tokyo guide here on Substack, you’ll hopefully have gained some useful insight into some of the most memorable restaurants / eats during my last trip out there. This week, we take a short break from savoury and dive into the wonderful world of kakigori.
When it comes to sweet treats, Tokyo delivers in all sorts of unexpected ways but kakigori, Japan’s take on shaved ice, completely stole my heart. I had a different kakigori pretty much every day and tried flavours I didn’t even know existed in dessert form. It’s refreshing, light, creative, seasonal, and often jaw-droppingly beautiful.
So, what is kakigori?
Very simply, kakigori is a shaved ice dessert that’s super popular in Japan. In it’s most basic form, it’s a mound of shaved ice, topped with seasonal flavoured syrups and sauces. It’s something I’d argue is similar in popularity to say gelato in Italy. Despite my over simplistic description above, it’s like an art form in Japan, with meticulous layers of flavour, interesting ingredient combinations and technique wrapped up in each bowl. There’s a whole world of kakigori out there and its something you can’t miss.
It’s often layered with fruit purées, condensed milk, teas, creams and even savoury touches like yuzu pepper or matcha foam.
But what really sets Japanese kakigori apart is the ice itself. It’s not just frozen tap water – far from it. Most top kakigori shops use large blocks of ultra-pure, slow-frozen ice, often made from mineral water. The slow freezing process ensures the ice is clear, dense, and free of air bubbles, which makes a huge difference in texture.
When shaved properly (using ultra-sharp, hand-cranked or electric machines like the Swan), this kind of ice turns into a soft, snowy fluff — not crunchy, not gritty, but almost like fresh powder. It melts instantly on the tongue, delivering the flavours of the syrups or sauces with no icy after-bite.
This attention to detail, starting from the ice itself, is what makes the kakigori in Japan such a different experience compared to what you might expect if you’ve only had it elsewhere.
Chefs here are treating kakigori like plated desserts, carefully composed, often seasonal, and sometimes even bordering on Michelin-level in flavour and presentation.
As always: check the shop’s Instagram or website before you go, since hours and flavours change often and some sell out early in the day.
Now, let’s get into my favourites…
Azuki to Kōri
The hottest kakigori spot in Tokyo right now and for good reason. Founded by a chef who came from Michelin-starred Florilège, Azuki to Kōri treats every bowl of kakigori like a culinary masterpiece.
There are usually five flavours available daily, and they rotate based on seasonal ingredients and the chef’s creativity. Think combinations like roasted green tea with orange confit, peach and white chocolate, or black sesame with kinako cream. Each bowl is incredibly balanced, not overly sweet and with a texture that’s like fresh snow. As far as ratings go, this spot is up there as one of the best in terms of flavour complexity, presentation and overall refinement. If you are only going to try one spot whilst you’re in Tokyo, it should be this.
The café itself is calm and minimalist, a little hidden away but well worth finding. Expect a queue, especially on weekends. Check the instagram for some of the rotating flavours.
Address: 2 Chome-9-11 Motoazabu, Minato City, Tokyo 106-0046
Hours: 12:00pm–6:00pm (closed Wednesdays)
Mamatoko
Tucked away in a quiet residential neighbourhood, Mamatoko was recommended to me by a friend (Jess) who’s full-on obsessed with kakigori and I’m glad I listened - she really knows what she’s talking about. You can check out her page here.
It’s small, humble, and incredibly welcoming. Their kakigori is light, fluffy, affordable, and made with care. The menu changes daily, and they post updates on Instagram, so definitely check there before going. Might need to use translate to figure out what’s what.
The highlight for me was their citrus peel kakigori, which had that perfect balance of bittersweet flavours. It was bright, refreshing, and addictive. There are lot’s of wild flavours here like muscat grape with rare cheese (sweet and creamy) and genmaicha with puffed cereal and sweet bean. Step out of your comfort zone and you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
You usually have to book the day before via the link on their Instagram, or can try walk in.
Address: 3 Chome-23-9 Shimomeguro, Meguro City, Tokyo 153-0064
Hours: 11:30am–6:00pm (check Instagram for changes)
Cafe Tsuji
A beautiful little café with a warm, cosy vibe, Cafe Tsuji serves a mix of seasonal kakigori and all-year-round staples. Summer and winter fruit kakigori’s here are solid and their selection of toppings is vast – cream cheese is the classic, but lemon curd and pistachio are great too. I had their hojicha (roasted green tea) flavour, and it honestly blew me away: smokey, creamy, and deeply satisfying. I don’t know why, but anything green tea flavoured makes me think it’s a little healthy. It’s all about balance.
If you’re a fan of Japanese tea, this is the place to go. They do matcha kakigori that’s clean and earthy, not overly sweet, just really well-balanced. Also, a great spot to chill in between sightseeing around the Kagurazaka area.
Address: 6 Chome-8-27 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 162-0825
Hours: 12:00pm–6:00pm (closed Mondays)
Shimura
I didn’t get to go here personally, but multiple trusted food sources told me Shimura is one of the best kakigori spots in Tokyo. This place is highly rated, and I just didn’t have the time to go but figured those of you reading this would be interested.
They’re known for their perfectly shaved ice and traditional Japanese flavours like matcha, adzuki bean, and seasonal fruits. Presentation looks amazing and they take pride in texture, apparently so soft it feels like freshly fallen snow. The ice is sourced from the Nikko region, known for it’s purity and smooth texture. High on my list for next time.
Address: 3 Chome-9-11 Takaban, Meguro City, Tokyo 152-0004
Hours: 11:00am–6:00pm (closed Tuesdays)
Yelo
It’s rare to find a kakigori place that’s available late into the night as kakigori is typically eaten during the day. Yelo is located in Roppongi and has more of a casual, nightlife-adjacent vibe, great for a post-dinner or post-drinks dessert run. To be honest, it’s a bit of a run down joint but when you’re craving, it saves the day.
They keep it simple and fun, with light, fluffy ice and a rotating list of flavours. My personal pick was the melon with cream – juicy, smooth, and not too sweet but stupidly creamy. This was good for a quick hit but I’ll be honest, it’s not refined or top tier by any stretch.
If you’ve been hitting heavier food earlier in the day, this is a great way to cool down without going overboard. When everything else is shut, head here.
Address: 1 Chome-25-15 Roppongi, Minato City, Tokyo 106-0032
Hours: 11:00am–10:00pm daily
Kakigori Ryan
Tucked away in Shinjuku, Kakigori Ryan is one of those spots you might walk right past if you didn’t know about it but once inside, it feels like a secret hideout for serious kakigori fans. The space is compact, with a clean, simple design that keeps the focus entirely on the desserts. Only around 12 seats here.
What makes Ryan stand out is their inventive, bold flavours and this is where I had one of the most memorable bowls of my trip: masala chai kakigori. Spicy, sweet, creamy, and so well-balanced. It felt like drinking a hot chai... but somehow icy and refreshing. Total magic. Their mango lassi flavour is next on my hit list, dying to try it.
Another fun twist here: they let you order half-and-half, so you can try two flavours in one bowl. Great if you’re indecisive or visiting with someone who’s also tempted by everything on the menu.
They open early and close once they sell out, so best to get there by late morning if you're serious about it.
Address: 3 Chome-1-10 Sendagaya, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 151-0051
Hours: 11:00am–5:00pm (closed Tuesdays)
And that wraps up Part 3 of the Tokyo Food Diary. Kakigori is a must when you’re travelling to Japan and there are countless spots across the country. It’s incredibly light, flavourful, endlessly creative, and just so much fun to discover around the city. DO NOT SKIP!
I’ll finish by saying i’m by no means a kakigori expert. There really are kakigori sommeliers and this was my first time trying so many different varieties. Lot’s to get through on my next trip. Consider me a kakigori newbie for all intensive purposes.
Stay tuned for next week’s article, where I’ll be diving into another Tokyo obsession: katsu.
Until then, stay cool 🍧
Love this! Reminds me of the “Italian Job” gelato recipe sprinkled with olive oil and fennel pollen I adapted from NYC restaurant Lilia for easy home cooking! Just one scoop can waylay a Mafia Mobster's most nefarious plottings.
check it out:
https://thesecretingredient.substack.com/p/get-nyc-restaurant-lilia-italian-job-gelato-recipe